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Pinot Noir

Life Style / Wine Grapes / Pinot Noir: Belongs to the premier Pinot grape 'c?page' of the Burgundy region of France. Recently (2002) recognized that the progenitors of the c?page are most likely Traminer and a clonal selection, or seedling, of the ancient Pinot Meunier variety. It appears that the three color variations of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir come from the same genotype. The named variety produces a red wine that is lighter in color than the Bordeaux reds (such as the Cabernet's or Merlot). C?page clones of this variety have many synonym names such as (Blauer) Arbst, Auvernat Noir, Pinot Droit, Blauer Klevner, Coraillod, Noirien, Schwartz Klevner, Vert Dore, and even plain numbers. It has proved to be a capriciously acting and difficult grape for N. American wineries, best results being obtained in cool, fog-liable regions such as the Carneros region of northern California, and the selection of similar well-drained limestone-base soils for which Burgundy, France is famous. Rich soils should be avoided, leading as they do to excess vegetal growth. Choice of a suitable clone version is critical, as is careful vineyard pruning technique and planting density. The importance of clone version is amply demonstrated with the recommendation of the 'Wadensville' (W?denswil) and 'Mariafelder' (Klevner Mariafeld) clones, the latter ripening in mid-October, for use in the Finger Lakes region of New York State where they have consistently produced quality wines despite not being as cold-hardy as some other clones. Oregon growers seem to have a preference for the 'UCD5 (Pommard)', 'Dijon' and (occasionally) the 'Martiti' clones. The worlds best 'quality' wines are reputed to result from a mixing of suitable clones: a common practice in Burgundy, France, where numbers 667, 777 and 828 appear to be currently favored in addition to the reliable 114 and 115 when grafted to suitably limestone tolerant, moderately vigorous rootstocks such as Fercal and 161-49C. Cherished aromas and flavors often detected in varietal wines include cherry, mint, raspberry, truffles and the ubiquitous gamey odor in new wines often referred to as 'animal?' by the french winemaker. An interesting mutant of old vine Pinot Noir that started producing white-skinned grapes was reportedly propagated (1936) in his 'Les Perrieres' plot (cru) by Henri Gouges of Burgundy. By 1947 rooted cuttings from these vines were fairly widespread in the district. In his magisterial book 'Cote D'Or', 1997, pps. 144/457, Clive Coates whimsically allots the alias name Pinot Gouges to these vines. Other sources refer to it as the Pinot Musigny. At last report there was about 2.5 ha planted, producing a white wine described by Coates as neither Meursault or Corton, but intriguing and produced in different styles that peak in about four to eight years. German growers know the classic Pinot Noir variety under several alias names, such as Sp?tburgunder. In Italy the variety is known as Pinot Nero. Growers in New Zealand are reported to use the 'AM 10/5', 'Bachtobel' and 'UCD5 (Pommard)' clones as dominant choices. The presumed parent variety known as Pinot Meunier is widely planted around the world under several alias names and is used to produce the main blending wine for so-called 'Blanc de Noir' sparkling wines. In California the c?page has often been erroneously divided into various Gamay varieties until recent times. A new study (Meredith, Bowers et al, Science 9/99) has determined that many of the varieties for which Burgundy is justly famous, such as Chardonnay, Gamay Noir etc, all trace back to a cross that occurred between a certain ancient (? Pinot Meunier) c?page clone variety and Gouais Blanc.
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